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Shalom on the Last Day of Chanukah
Now I know what you all must be thinking, "2 Chapters in 2 days? He must be crazy! There's nothing he could've done in that ONE DAY which could fill up another long chapter email!" Well you're wrong. There is. But first, some more observations:
A couple of small things I've noticed since yesterday or forgot to mention yesterday. First of all more on the drivers (I know, sorry!) they don't slow down for speed bumps...which makes for a bumpy ride! Also, it's incredibly amusing to me to note the Hebrew Graffiti on the walls here. It's not nearly as abundant as english graffiti is in Australia, and seems to much less threatening. On top of this, you'll all be pleased to know that I am not lacking in the feeling that Town Hall steps and the inner city arises in me - being amused by the emos and lads and scene kids. They have them here too, but to a FAR lesser extent. I have so far come across only 8 punks, and then maybe a few more emos - but the levels of lads are slightly increased, being that these ones actually look dangerous. Another thing which you will all notice if you ever come here, would be the number of guns. Every defence person, even mall security, has a gun. Army guys everywhere, security, even the school security and travel guides have guns!
Tuesday 11th (Day 8) Debbie's Dinner: When I last left you I was off to this dinner. It was to light the last Hannukah candle and catch up with Debbie, Joe and Daniel. And we were also introduced to a lovely young lady named Alyssa who is volunteering in Jerusalem doing charity work with after school kids from poor areas. The dinner consisted of Hummus and toast, soup, latkes and then ice-cream for desert. Though it doens't sound like much, I was so damn full. I also had another Jack (this time with Coke) which I poured myself, so that the level of alcohol wasn't so ridiculous. After the dinner, I spent most of the time outside with Daniel and Alyssa talking about all our friends and families, and then it was time to go home.
Wednesday 12th (Day 9) Masada and the Dead Sea: The trip started when we had to wake up this morning at 6am to get to the bus station by 7:30 and get on the bus at 8 and be in Masada by about 11ish. The trip didn't start off so hot, we coudn't figure out where the bus was, but we eventually found it, only to realize it had been sitting there the whole time - and none of the information people knew about it. Useless. Then as the trip began on the highway, there was some CD playing on the system and the woman next to us new every single one and either sang the lyrics off key, or just hummed along to the tune "la la lala la la"...good GOD that was annoying...for over and HOUR!
So then the tour guide began giving us interesting information on the way to Masada, for example: The Dead Sea is 400m below sea level and is the lowest point on Earth. The Judain Desert we were driving through used to belong more to Jordan, but was taken more by the Israelis in the battle for independance, and also the desert is all rock - no sand. Since its independance in 1948, Israel has planted more than 240 Million trees. There were many Bedouin temporary settlements along the route...and one of them had a camel in it! (Stereotype anyone?) We drove through the Syria Africa Rift Valley which is a crack in the Earth's crust which stretches from Syria through Lebanon, Israel, Ethiopia until Malawi and Mozambique.
We passed the sign which read "sea level" which was also marked by a tied up, live camel, and we continued downward. On the way we passed the city of Jericho which is the oldest city in the world, dating in at 10,000 years old.
Next, we had our pit-stop. As we drove into this gas station/restaurant, I saw a dead donkey. I also spotted a tied up camel nearby and asked the guy next to me to take a photo of me next to the camel, and he agreed as long as I did the same for him. As we were taking photos, the pit-stop owner's son came out and offered us to get on the camel. The camel growled and frothed at this idea - ill-tempered animal that it is - but we did it anyway and got some funny shots. As I was walking away, the fellow said I had to pay him for that. So, I asked how much and he looked away and said quietly, "how much do you want to give me?" we exchanged these 2 lines about 3 times until I just handed him 20 Sheckles, which is approximately $6.15, and walked away. He had probably never been given so much for such a thing. Then the other fellow on the bus, seeing that I had paid, offered to give me 10 Sheckles for he had ridden the camel too, so all up I only spent about 3 bucks on the thing. Yoffee (Excellent! in Hebrew)!
Back on the bus we passed the -400m mark and were on the straight bee-line to Masada and the Dead Sea. That Sea is god damn HUGE - 80km long and 20km wide. It's levels, however, have been slowly decreasing, especially in the last 40-50 years, so much so in fact that it is really now 2 separate lakes - the Nth and the Sth. The Nth lake, which is the one we went to, has a deepest region of 320m, and has a 32% salt level!
First, came the climb around Masada. The story here, is that there were 960 Jews inside the fortress being seiged by the Roman Army. They realized that fighting the Romans was pointless and decided rather to die than to become slaves. So they decided to all commit suicide. 10 men were selected and they were to kill the other 950 (including the women and children - some of whom were their own) and then one man would have to kill the others and when he was the last, fall on his sword. So around these ruins we walked, looking at the architecture of the place and learning it's various secrets and histories. But of course, this would not be complete without grandma. She, being VERY hard of hearing, was CONSTANTLY talking over the tour-guide - and she talks LOUDLY. And also she would often repeat things he had already said to me, and I would just nod and mention that he had mentioned these things. Also, in our tour group, there was this lovely French couple and even though they had informed us to wear light clothes and good climbing shoes - the French man had worn a full suit, minus tie, and a denim shirt...with dress shoes! But he seemed contented, so who am I to judge?
When we decended this mountain once more in the cable car, we made our way to the Dead Sea/Ein Ghedi Spa. Now, from here on, there is no grandma - she does not want to swim because of her cold, and is staying by the pool and reading. First thing, I put my clothes and belongings (except for camera) into a locker and get into the Sulfur Baths. Damn was it comfortable. Smelly as all hell, and so salty I could SEE the salt floating in the water, but warm and comfortable nonetheless. Of course, one could easily float in this shallow pool of sulfur. We were not allowed to be in more than 15 mins because the doctor's said not to (who knows why). Then I showered and moved onto the Mud Bath. This was by far one of the coolest parts of this trip. I smeared myself in the wonderful mud provided and stood in the sun. Then I showered myself in a sulfur shower and I felt like a new person. I felt light, refreshed and my skin was baby smooth. Next up I walked down the path to the Dead Sea itself. Here on in I regret not having sandles or swimming shoes. The reason for this is that the whole beach is made of a giant plateau of SALT. Hardened, sharp, beautiful salt. However, it was really only sharpest inside the water and it was smoother on the beach greater. I then walked into the water which was SO MUCH THICKER than normal water - you could FEEL the drag against your legs. Then I waded in to where most people were - which was about 1 foot deep - and then...I. Could. Float. I was lying there, legs up, or arms up, or sitting, and I was floating. It was glorious and bizarre. When I got out of this salt pool, I still had a thick layer of the stuff on me and I showered.
Then came 3:30 and it was time to go home. Because the sun sets earlier the further north you go in Israel, the sun had started to set and the vapers of salt above the Dead Sea had turned a beautiful pink. On the way, I saw an Ibek! Which is a kind of mountain goat, and you make shofer's from the horns (a ceremonial horn which is blown on passover). As the sun set over the mountains, we made our way back towards the city - towards home. I was beat. I could still feel the salt on my skin and my lips and on my tongue but I didn't care. I was beat. Never had I been so happy to arrive at grandma's apartment and rest and write to you.
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